Stitch 'N Bitch Nation: Mobile Monsters

Posted on by MK Carroll

mobile monsters

Pattern: Mobile Monsters, published in Stitch N' Bitch Nation, ed. Debbie Stoller. 


Berroco Plush (100% nylon; 50g/90yds)

Piggy: 1 skein #1932 Precious Pink

Bunny: 1 skein #1934 Black Out

US 5 (3.75mm) straight needles

Stitch markers

Tapestry needle

Sewing needle

Thread to match yarn

Piggy: Small piece of pink felt

Piggy: 2 7/16” domed shank buttons

Piggy: 1 1” pink 4 holed coat button

Bunny: Small piece of white felt

Bunny: 2 1/4” round beads

The only question I've been getting is about "Pu" - that's an abbreviation for "pick up stitches."  Check out page 263 of SNBN for the tutorial.

There really was a kitty monster that hotwired my car and drove off.  The vehicle was later recovered, but the kitty monster had escaped.  To make a kitty, use the piggy pattern for the ears.  Cut out felt teeth as for the bunny pattern, and trim into fangs.  Do not leave unattended in a motor vehicle.  Also has unfortunate tendency to chew on headset cords.

There are two mods of the pattern posted on Craftster - a piggy resized to fit a digital camera, and a piggy modded to hold an iPod. [update 27 Aug 05] Mod of the pattern to make a Goofy Hot Pink Kitty!  Done in bright orange and with cute button eyes, iPod Piggy.  An assortment of piggies and a bunny

Susan Beal was inspired by my design to make a Year of the Pig iPod Cozy, sewn up out of a felted sweater.

Stitch 'N Bitch Nation: Headhuggers

Posted on by MK Carroll

(looking for Head Huggers, the charitable organization?

Pattern: Headhuggers, published in Stitch N' Bitch Nation, ed. Debbie Stoller. You can buy the book online through the Bust Boobtique.

Head Hugger

Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran (55% merino wool, 33% microfibre, 12% cashmere; 50g/98yds)[CYCA standards #4 Medium]
Neckwarmer: 1 skein #101 Ivory
Earwarmer: 1 skein #300 Black
Debbie Bliss Merino Chunky (100% merino wool; 50g/55yds)[CYCA standards #5 Bulky]
Flowers: 1 skein 700 Red
Debbie Bliss Merino DK (100% merino wool; 50g/102yds) [CYCA standards #3 Light]
Leaves: 1 skein 501 Lime
Leaves: DMC embroidery floss, turquoise 3845, 1 skein
US 8 (5mm) straight needles (optional)
2 US 8 (5mm) double-pointed needles
Leaves (optional): beads, bead needle, thread to match flower
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle

m1 is a make one increase. has instructions on a few different ways to do a m1; the version on the site called "M1R" or "Make One Right" is the one that I used.

The written instructions can get a little confusing - the idea is to slip the first stitch at the beginning of each row to give you a nice smooth edge, slipping the stitch knitwise or purlwise as appropriate. If this makes you batty, go ahead and just knit the first stitch. You can go back and neaten up the edge with a row of single crochet.

The flowers - I almost went nuts figuring out the pattern for the flowers! They were originally crocheted, very quick and easy, but Deb asked me to come up with a knitted pattern, so I did. It made my brain hurt lots but I bet I put in a few more wrinkles that way. There are threads on the pattern over at SNBN Virtual SNB forum and at (Head Huggers Help, HeadHugger SNBN). Yes, you really drop all those stitches off the needle. Try it with scrap yarn if it scares you - the first slipped stitch is there to catch the ones you drop. It's based on a scalloped edging pattern from one of the Barbara Walker Treasuries.

For yarn substitutions, I recommend reading the Knitty Field Guide to Yarn Substitution. For the band, a smooth yarn that feels comfortable against bare skin is preferred.

KB had a happy accident when she misread the pattern, and I really like the results! Photos are posted on her blog. I've sketched out a pattern for a cherry blossom version of the headhugger - light blue band, white blossoms with pink embroidery. Still haven't gotten around to making one, but I may just have to, using her modified pattern! Jillz has done some modifications as well, like doing one in stockinette stitch with multi-colored flowers, and one done in ribbing with little white flowers. Tabby has made two neckwarmers and an earwarmer - one of the neckwarmers is plain and used to wear under things. Redgreen used gray and blue and crocheted a flower instead of knitting one.

Stitch N' Bitch Crochet: Ladylike Lace Gloves

Posted on by MK Carroll

Ladylike Lace Gloves
Stitch 'N Bitch: The Happy Hooker, ed. Debbie Stoller
Workman Publishing, first printing February 2006

Materials: Yarn: 1 skein* Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock, color Charcoal or color of your choice.  Shepherd Sock is a handdyed, machine washable 80% wool/20% nylon sock yarn (also called fingering weight).  Each skein is 2 oz/215 yds of 4ply, tightly spun.  I think it's a great combination of rugged (machine washable, holds up really well to use and wear) and soft (very nice against the skin).

Hook: size F/5(3.75mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Size: Women's Medium (suggested modifications for Small and Large below).

*I wound up with enough leftover yarn after doing the edging and seaming for both gloves that I felt comfortable listing one skein for the pattern. Mileage does vary from crocheter to crocheter, though, and there's at least one crocheter who completed the pattern using the Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock and didn't have enough left to do the edging with.


SECOND PRINTING: please note that the second printing of the book has a corrected version of the pattern and you will not need this errata.  The corrected second printing version will not match up line for line with the first printing version + errata!

One more reason to love Craftster; it's a great way to find out about problems people run into. Thanks to this thread and Debbie Stoller, revisions have been made to the explanation for the stitch pattern.

All errata for the book is available at the Stitch 'N Bitch website, and you can download a PDF copy here.

*update* 4/04/06: this should be all of it.  And if it isn't, I'll have another serving of humble pie.

So that you don’t have to renumber the rest of the pattern, I’m calling the omitted row 19.5, since it’s between row 19 and row 20.
Row 19.5: ch1, sc in back loop of each stitch across, turn (50sc)

Row 38: The total stitch count at the end of the row is 50 (50sc).

Row 39: The total stitch count at the end of the row is 50 (50sc).

Row 40: Ch1, sc in back loop of each of the first 14sc, hdc in each of the next 36 sc. hdc2tog, working first hdc in next row end st and second hdc in back loop of first free sc 3 rows below (row 34), working in rem sts in row 34, hdc in back loop of each sc across, turn. 50 sts.

Row 44: Ch1, hdc in back loop of each of first 28 sts, 2 hdc in next hdc, hdc2tog, working first hdc in next row-end st and second hdc in back loop of first free hdc 3 rows below (row 41), working in rem sts in row 41, hdc in back loop of each hdc across, turn – 50 sts.

Rows 46-49: replace with: repeat rows 42-45

Row 52: Ch1, hdc in back loop of each of the first 18 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc,
hdc2tog, working first hdc in next row-end st and second hdc in back loop of first free hdc 3 rows below (row 49), working in rem sts in row 49, hdc in back loop of each hdc across, turn – 50 sts.


It's too big! First, be sure you are using the right weight of yarn, and that you are getting the recommended gauge. The pattern calls for fingering weight and the book includes photos of all the yarns used along with the symbols that the industry is using to standardize yarn weights. If you are planning to substitute a different yarn for the Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock, you can check out the selection of sock yarns available to you as a starting point. I don't think fiber content is tremendously important; use what catches your fancy, keeping in mind that the Shepherd Sock is 100% wool and so has some "bounce" and a memory, unlike 100% cotton, which will tend to get saggy after wearing.  If the problem wasn't the yarn or your gauge, try the suggested resizing below.

Will any sock yarn work?

If you get gauge with the yarn, it will most likely work.  You have some leeway - the ribbing is stretchy, so even if the finished glove is a little smaller or a little larger than the pattern, it should still fit a medium.

In general, if you can go to a shop to check out the yarns you can hold them up against the photos of the yarns in the book.  The Craft Yarn Council of America has a guide to yarn standards*, and the blog Go Knit in Your Hat has a post about yarn classification and a post about yarn substitution that are super helpful.

*I should also add that Go Knit in Your Hat and The Girl From Auntie both posted about why they don't like the CYCA Yarn Standards (in a nutshell, they find the standards are too vague and not very helpful for doing yarn subs).

The palm side is shorter than the back. This was due to a couple of omissions in rows 38, 44, and 52.  It has also been noted that the top section of the hand, where you seam it, is tighter on the palm side.  Working into the "butt" of the chain in rows 21 and 36 will make it easier to get a smooth seam.

There's a weird flap by the wrist. Row 19.5 takes care of that - what happens is that the first few rows set up the wrist shaping and are supposed to make the top of the hand wider than the wrist...but without row 19.5, that winds up being part of the wrist section.

I am not a medium. For resizing: Take measurements of the hands the gloves are intended for and do a gauge swatch in the pattern stitch and in the ribbing that is at least 4 repeats of the pattern stitch wide, and play with that swatch to get a good feel for the fabric. Need I mention, wash that gauge swatch and let it dry flat before measuring, especially if you are using a different yarn?

Large: you can make a larger glove by using a sport weight yarn instead, like Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sport.  You could use the same size hook, or go up a size, depending on how large you want to get.  The ribbing is very stretchy and you may not need to make it as large as you might think.
Small: this is a little trickier, as you can make the glove smaller by skipping a few rows, but you want to make sure that the shaping doesn't get messed up.  You could try using a finer yarn (like Lorna's Laces Helen's Lace) and/or a smaller hook (this may work best for child-size hands).  Otherwise, I'd skip rows 8 -11 on the back, and try working the entire palm in sc instead of hdc.
Your blurb mentions the Honolulu Stitch 'N Bitch, but I can't find any information for the group. During an ongoing trademark dispute, all Yahoo!  Stitch 'N Bitch groups had to change their names.  The new group is Aloha Knitters, and we still meet at Mocha Java (Ward Center) on Thursday nights from 7pm - 9pm, and some members have been meeting over on the Windward Side and in Waikele.

The text of the pattern is the best job that the tech editor and I, together, could come up with to explain it verbally.


This is a version worked up in two colors so you can see the different parts easily - the palm isn't complete yet.

Learn to Crochet: day looks
The vintage pattern that inspired mine, from a "Learn To Crochet" booklet published by J&P Coats, 1946.

Learn to Crochet