Ladylike Lace Gloves
Stitch 'N Bitch: The Happy Hooker, ed. Debbie Stoller
Workman Publishing, first printing February 2006
Materials: Yarn: 1 skein* Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock, color Charcoal or color of your choice. Shepherd Sock is a handdyed, machine washable 80% wool/20% nylon sock yarn (also called fingering weight). Each skein is 2 oz/215 yds of 4ply, tightly spun. I think it's a great combination of rugged (machine washable, holds up really well to use and wear) and soft (very nice against the skin).
Hook: size F/5(3.75mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
Size: Women's Medium (suggested modifications for Small and Large below).
*I wound up with enough leftover yarn after doing the edging and seaming for both gloves that I felt comfortable listing one skein for the pattern. Mileage does vary from crocheter to crocheter, though, and there's at least one crocheter who completed the pattern using the Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock and didn't have enough left to do the edging with.
ERRATA
SECOND PRINTING: please note that the second printing of the book has a corrected version of the pattern and you will not need this errata. The corrected second printing version will not match up line for line with the first printing version + errata!
One more reason to love Craftster; it's a great way to find out about problems people run into. Thanks to this thread and Debbie Stoller, revisions have been made to the explanation for the stitch pattern.
All errata for the book is available at the Stitch 'N Bitch website, and you can download a PDF copy here.
*update* 4/04/06: this should be all of it. And if it isn't, I'll have another serving of humble pie.
So that you don’t have to renumber the rest of the pattern, I’m calling the omitted row 19.5, since it’s between row 19 and row 20.
BACK
Row 19.5: ch1, sc in back loop of each stitch across, turn (50sc)
PALM
Row 38: The total stitch count at the end of the row is 50 (50sc).
Row 39: The total stitch count at the end of the row is 50 (50sc).
Row 40: Ch1, sc in back loop of each of the first 14sc, hdc in each of the next 36 sc.hdc2tog, working first hdc in next row end st and second hdc in back loop of first free sc 3 rows below (row 34), working in rem sts in row 34, hdc in back loop of each sc across, turn. 50 sts.
Row 44: Ch1, hdc in back loop of each of first 28 sts, 2 hdc in next hdc, hdc2tog, working first hdc in next row-end st and second hdc in back loop of first free hdc 3 rows below (row 41), working in rem sts in row 41, hdc in back loop of each hdc across, turn – 50 sts.
Rows 46-49: replace with: repeat rows 42-45
Row 52: Ch1, hdc in back loop of each of the first 18 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc,
hdc2tog, working first hdc in next row-end st and second hdc in back loop of first free hdc 3 rows below (row 49), working in rem sts in row 49, hdc in back loop of each hdc across, turn – 50 sts.
Troubleshooting:
It's too big! First, be sure you are using the right weight of yarn, and that you are getting the recommended gauge. The pattern calls for fingering weight and the book includes photos of all the yarns used along with the symbols that the industry is using to standardize yarn weights. If you are planning to substitute a different yarn for the Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock, you can check out the selection of sock yarns available to you as a starting point. I don't think fiber content is tremendously important; use what catches your fancy, keeping in mind that the Shepherd Sock is 100% wool and so has some "bounce" and a memory, unlike 100% cotton, which will tend to get saggy after wearing. If the problem wasn't the yarn or your gauge, try the suggested resizing below.
Will any sock yarn work?
If you get gauge with the yarn, it will most likely work. You have some leeway - the ribbing is stretchy, so even if the finished glove is a little smaller or a little larger than the pattern, it should still fit a medium.
In general, if you can go to a shop to check out the yarns you can hold them up against the photos of the yarns in the book. The Craft Yarn Council of America has a guide to yarn standards*, and the blog Go Knit in Your Hat has a post about yarn classification and a post about yarn substitution that are super helpful.
*I should also add that Go Knit in Your Hat and The Girl From Auntie both posted about why they don't like the CYCA Yarn Standards (in a nutshell, they find the standards are too vague and not very helpful for doing yarn subs).
The palm side is shorter than the back. This was due to a couple of omissions in rows 38, 44, and 52. It has also been noted that the top section of the hand, where you seam it, is tighter on the palm side. Working into the "butt" of the chain in rows 21 and 36 will make it easier to get a smooth seam.
There's a weird flap by the wrist. Row 19.5 takes care of that - what happens is that the first few rows set up the wrist shaping and are supposed to make the top of the hand wider than the wrist...but without row 19.5, that winds up being part of the wrist section.
I am not a medium. For resizing: Take measurements of the hands the gloves are intended for and do a gauge swatch in the pattern stitch and in the ribbing that is at least 4 repeats of the pattern stitch wide, and play with that swatch to get a good feel for the fabric. Need I mention, wash that gauge swatch and let it dry flat before measuring, especially if you are using a different yarn?
Large: you can make a larger glove by using a sport weight yarn instead, like Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sport. You could use the same size hook, or go up a size, depending on how large you want to get. The ribbing is very stretchy and you may not need to make it as large as you might think.
Small: this is a little trickier, as you can make the glove smaller by skipping a few rows, but you want to make sure that the shaping doesn't get messed up. You could try using a finer yarn (like Lorna's Laces Helen's Lace) and/or a smaller hook (this may work best for child-size hands). Otherwise, I'd skip rows 8 -11 on the back, and try working the entire palm in sc instead of hdc.
Your blurb mentions the Honolulu Stitch 'N Bitch, but I can't find any information for the group. During an ongoing trademark dispute, all Yahoo! Stitch 'N Bitch groups had to change their names. The new group is Aloha Knitters, and we still meet at Mocha Java (Ward Center) on Thursday nights from 7pm - 9pm, and some members have been meeting over on the Windward Side and in Waikele.
The text of the pattern is the best job that the tech editor and I, together, could come up with to explain it verbally.
This is a version worked up in two colors so you can see the different parts easily - the palm isn't complete yet.
The vintage pattern that inspired mine, from a "Learn To Crochet" booklet published by J&P Coats, 1946.
Stitch 'N Bitch: The Happy Hooker, ed. Debbie Stoller
Workman Publishing, first printing February 2006
Materials: Yarn: 1 skein* Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock, color Charcoal or color of your choice. Shepherd Sock is a handdyed, machine washable 80% wool/20% nylon sock yarn (also called fingering weight). Each skein is 2 oz/215 yds of 4ply, tightly spun. I think it's a great combination of rugged (machine washable, holds up really well to use and wear) and soft (very nice against the skin).
Hook: size F/5(3.75mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
Size: Women's Medium (suggested modifications for Small and Large below).
*I wound up with enough leftover yarn after doing the edging and seaming for both gloves that I felt comfortable listing one skein for the pattern. Mileage does vary from crocheter to crocheter, though, and there's at least one crocheter who completed the pattern using the Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock and didn't have enough left to do the edging with.
ERRATA
SECOND PRINTING: please note that the second printing of the book has a corrected version of the pattern and you will not need this errata. The corrected second printing version will not match up line for line with the first printing version + errata!
One more reason to love Craftster; it's a great way to find out about problems people run into. Thanks to this thread and Debbie Stoller, revisions have been made to the explanation for the stitch pattern.
All errata for the book is available at the Stitch 'N Bitch website, and you can download a PDF copy here.
*update* 4/04/06: this should be all of it. And if it isn't, I'll have another serving of humble pie.
So that you don’t have to renumber the rest of the pattern, I’m calling the omitted row 19.5, since it’s between row 19 and row 20.
BACK
Row 19.5: ch1, sc in back loop of each stitch across, turn (50sc)
PALM
Row 38: The total stitch count at the end of the row is 50 (50sc).
Row 39: The total stitch count at the end of the row is 50 (50sc).
Row 40: Ch1, sc in back loop of each of the first 14sc, hdc in each of the next 36 sc.
Row 44: Ch1, hdc in back loop of each of first 28 sts, 2 hdc in next hdc, hdc2tog, working first hdc in next row-end st and second hdc in back loop of first free hdc 3 rows below (row 41), working in rem sts in row 41, hdc in back loop of each hdc across, turn – 50 sts.
Rows 46-49: replace with: repeat rows 42-45
Row 52: Ch1, hdc in back loop of each of the first 18 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc,
hdc2tog, working first hdc in next row-end st and second hdc in back loop of first free hdc 3 rows below (row 49), working in rem sts in row 49, hdc in back loop of each hdc across, turn – 50 sts.
Troubleshooting:
It's too big! First, be sure you are using the right weight of yarn, and that you are getting the recommended gauge. The pattern calls for fingering weight and the book includes photos of all the yarns used along with the symbols that the industry is using to standardize yarn weights. If you are planning to substitute a different yarn for the Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock, you can check out the selection of sock yarns available to you as a starting point. I don't think fiber content is tremendously important; use what catches your fancy, keeping in mind that the Shepherd Sock is 100% wool and so has some "bounce" and a memory, unlike 100% cotton, which will tend to get saggy after wearing. If the problem wasn't the yarn or your gauge, try the suggested resizing below.
Will any sock yarn work?
If you get gauge with the yarn, it will most likely work. You have some leeway - the ribbing is stretchy, so even if the finished glove is a little smaller or a little larger than the pattern, it should still fit a medium.
In general, if you can go to a shop to check out the yarns you can hold them up against the photos of the yarns in the book. The Craft Yarn Council of America has a guide to yarn standards*, and the blog Go Knit in Your Hat has a post about yarn classification and a post about yarn substitution that are super helpful.
*I should also add that Go Knit in Your Hat and The Girl From Auntie both posted about why they don't like the CYCA Yarn Standards (in a nutshell, they find the standards are too vague and not very helpful for doing yarn subs).
The palm side is shorter than the back. This was due to a couple of omissions in rows 38, 44, and 52. It has also been noted that the top section of the hand, where you seam it, is tighter on the palm side. Working into the "butt" of the chain in rows 21 and 36 will make it easier to get a smooth seam.
There's a weird flap by the wrist. Row 19.5 takes care of that - what happens is that the first few rows set up the wrist shaping and are supposed to make the top of the hand wider than the wrist...but without row 19.5, that winds up being part of the wrist section.
I am not a medium. For resizing: Take measurements of the hands the gloves are intended for and do a gauge swatch in the pattern stitch and in the ribbing that is at least 4 repeats of the pattern stitch wide, and play with that swatch to get a good feel for the fabric. Need I mention, wash that gauge swatch and let it dry flat before measuring, especially if you are using a different yarn?
Large: you can make a larger glove by using a sport weight yarn instead, like Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sport. You could use the same size hook, or go up a size, depending on how large you want to get. The ribbing is very stretchy and you may not need to make it as large as you might think.
Small: this is a little trickier, as you can make the glove smaller by skipping a few rows, but you want to make sure that the shaping doesn't get messed up. You could try using a finer yarn (like Lorna's Laces Helen's Lace) and/or a smaller hook (this may work best for child-size hands). Otherwise, I'd skip rows 8 -11 on the back, and try working the entire palm in sc instead of hdc.
Your blurb mentions the Honolulu Stitch 'N Bitch, but I can't find any information for the group. During an ongoing trademark dispute, all Yahoo! Stitch 'N Bitch groups had to change their names. The new group is Aloha Knitters, and we still meet at Mocha Java (Ward Center) on Thursday nights from 7pm - 9pm, and some members have been meeting over on the Windward Side and in Waikele.
The text of the pattern is the best job that the tech editor and I, together, could come up with to explain it verbally.
This is a version worked up in two colors so you can see the different parts easily - the palm isn't complete yet.
The vintage pattern that inspired mine, from a "Learn To Crochet" booklet published by J&P Coats, 1946.