Knit: Digital Age Cozy

Here's the knit version of the Digital Age Cozy (suitable for iPods and some PDAs and mp3 players). Take a look at the crocheted version of the pattern over at CrochetMe magazine before knitting.


iPod cozies


Measurements: .62” x 2.4” x 4.1”




US4/3.5mm dpns

CO 16

Rows 1-3) k all

Row 4) Pick up 2 sts on short side, 16 on long side, 2 on remaining short side.

Row 5) k in seed st until work measures 4.1”

Add button and i-cord loop


OR


CO 15 sts

Knit in garter until work measures 4”

Sew sides together

Add button and i-cord loop


Pattern by MK Carroll, Creative Commons License, some rights reserved.

Crochet: Bacon and Eggs Handbag

originally posted on my old blog, Sept. 2005. Lady Linoleum has a free crochet pattern for fried egg wrist warmers, and be sure to take a look at her amazing bacon wrap

medameyaki

CROCHET Bacon and Eggs, Adapted from the 1979 Jackie Magazine Fry-Up Knitted Handbag Pattern, thanks to the Cult 45 Bookshop (website appears to be down as of 2006 - Craftster.org's "Crafts Gone Bad" has some photos).

Abbreviations:

sl = slip

ch = chain

sc = single crochet (American)

hdc = half double crochet (American)

dc = double crochet (American)

MC = main color

CC = contrast color

Gauge: 20sts/16rows = 4”/10cm

Notes:

No yarn amounts given – small enough so that I use scraps.

Eggs: Leave long tails with the MC and then stuff the tails into the back of the yolk to keep it supported.

Bacon: Size can be adjusted easily

EGGS

Large eggs (roughly life-size)

G/6 4.25mm hook

Worsted weight yarn, yellow[MC] and white[CC]

Chain 5, join to form loop

1. 2 hdc in ea st

2. 2 hdc every 2nd st

3. 2 hdc every 3rd st

4. 2 hdc every 4th st

5. work 1 round even

6. switch to CC.  2 hdc ea st.

7. 2 hdc every 2nd st

8. 2 hdc every 3rd st

9. 2 hdc every 4th st

Small eggs (about 3” diameter)

G/6 4.25mm hook

Worsted weight yarn, yellow (MC) and white (CC)

Ch 6, join

1. single crochet twice in each (12)

2. join with sl st, ch1.  hdc in first st, hdc twice in every 2nd st

3. join with sl st, ch1.  hdc in each st.

4. join with sl st, ch1.  *hdc in two sts, hdc twice in 3rd st*

5. join with sl st.  Using CC, ch 1.  2 hdc in ea st.

6. join with sl st, ch1. hdc in first st, hdc twice in every 2nd st

7. join with sl st, ch1, hdc twice in every 3rd st

BACON

G/6 4.25mm hook

Worsted weight yarn, dark red [MC] and cream [CC]

With MC, ch 52

1. dc in 3rd st fr hk.  dc all rem

2. change to CC, cut MC.  Ch1, single crochet all.

3. ch1, sc all sts

4. change to MC, cut CC, leaving a tail at least as long as the piece.  Ch1, sc all.

5. ch1, sc all sts

6. change to CC, cut MC.  Ch2, dc all.

7. Ch2, dc all sts.

8. change to MC, cut CC, leaving a tail at least as long as the piece.  Sl st all.

Cut yarn and weave in MC ends.

Using a tapestry needle and the long tail of CC, do a running stitch through the CC rows: on the right side, the width of one stitch, on the wrong side, the width of 3 – 10 stitches (try to make it fairly random).  Repeat with the second tail.  Pull gently on the tail ends, gathering the bacon into ruffles.  Adjust to your preferred look and knot the tail ends.

For the bag:

I’m explaining what I did – not the best tute in the world, and one that probably explains why I have some trouble with sewing.  If you have trouble understanding the instructions, I can’t help you, even if you are crying with frustration.  It’s glaringly obvious that I’m a mostly self-taught sewer and learned at an early age.  Some of the things I do would only make sense to a 7-yr old.

I chose denim for the outside and upholstery fabric for the lining; I didn’t measure the fabric, since I was using remnants – folded the fabric in half, put a dinner plate on it to see if I had enough.

I traced around a dinner plate with chalk onto the back of the fabric and added a 1/2” seam allowance (2 pieces of each fabric per handbag).  For the single strap, I cut a strip 5” wide, folded the edges into the center, folded it over again, and sewed it closed.  For the two straps, I did the same thing but with a shorter piece of fabric (I was almost out of fabric at this point).

It would probably be more efficient at this point to sew on the eggs and bacon, but I got nervous and sewed the lining pieces and outside pieces, right sides together and half the circumference of each, seams snipped.  Because I stuffed the yolks, I hand-sewed around the yolks first and then around the edge of the whites.  The bacon gets arranged and pinned into place, then the sections touching the bag were stitched down, again by hand.

Please note that there are better ways to sew the lining into a handbag.  I turned the outside piece inside out so that the public face was out, and for the complete circle, carefully ironed and snipped the seam allowances.  For the handbag with the long strap, I turned the hem down for the top and trimmed it. Then I slid the linings (public face in) into the bags and pinned them together, then slid the ends of the strap(s) between the lining and bag, adjusted them to the desired length, and then pinned them into place and carefully top-stitched the lining in.  I managed to do a zig-zag stitch over the side seams of the bags for reinforcement and to keep the lining secure; don’t ask me how.


Knit: Sushi Toilet Paper Roll Cozy

Maki Sushi Toilet Paper Cozy, pure knit version

knit sushi tp roll cozy


original crochet and crochet + knit versions available for free in the first issue of CrochetMe magazine.

supplies

US #4/3.5mm double pointed needles

worsted weight yarn, white and black (this pattern doesn't use much; you could get several cozies from a single skein of each color)

scrap yarns in assorted colors, as desired for filling

blunt yarn needle

stitch marker (or coilless safety pin)


abbreviations used
CO = cast on
BO = bind off
k = knit
p = purl
yf = yarn forward - like a yarn over, but done from the back to the front.  Use a different increase if you prefer, like m1 (make one) or knit 1 into the row below.  You could also do a yo (yarn over) and knit into the yarn over through the back loop on the following round (twists the stitch so there is no hole). 


rice

CO 6, divide among 3 needles.  Mark beginning of round.

1) k all

2) *yf, k1* = 12 sts

3) k all

4) *yf, k2* = 18 sts

5) k all

6) *yf, k1* = 36 sts

7) k all

8) *yf, k9* = 40 sts

9,10) k all

11) *yf, k5* = 48 sts

12, 13) k all

14) *yf, k6* = 56 sts

15, 16) k all

check for fit – if it almost fits the top of the tp roll, continue with nori.  If it’s not quite there, continue, checking for fit and moving on to nori when you’ve reached the desired diameter:

17) *yf, k7* = 64 sts

18, 19) k all

20) *yf, k8* = 72 sts

21, 22) k all

23) *yf, k9* = 80 sts

24, 25) k all

26) *yf, k10* = 88 sts

27, 28) k all


nori

switch to black yarn.  Knit one round, purl one round, then knit all following rounds until sides measure 4.5”/11.5cm or 1/2” shorter than desired length.  Work k1, p1 ribbing for 3 rounds and bind off.


Return to the beginning - using yarn needle, thread tail through first 6 sts and draw together to close the center. 


Weave in all ends.


fillings

using scrap yarns and blunt yarn needle, stitch in fillings as desired.  I marked off the inner 5 rounds and kept the fillings within that perimeter.  Recommended: acquire maki sushi for study purposes and then eat.


options

More knitting + sushi: super tasty sushi stitch markers from Amyville.com (other stitch marker charms include donuts and cupcakes!)

-use a bouclé yarn for the rice

-glue or sew on pieces of felt or other fabric instead of embroidering the fillings

- larger needles, like US 5 or 7, will save you some time and the results will still look good.

-if working on double pointed needles is not your idea of a good time, you can work the pattern back and forth in stockinette and then seam it up at the end.

- Nigiri Sushi Baby Wipe Cozy pattern, $3.50 for a .pdf download

Pattern by MK Carroll.  Creative Commons license, some rights reserved.

[originally posted on mizuna.blogspot.com, April 2005]